Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts

Sunday, 14 July 2019

Barcelona 1 of 9


Barcelona is the capital of the Catalonia region of Spain. It lies on the northeastern coast and has a soothing Mediterranean climate with warm summers and mild winters.
We visited Barcelona last year so we had some idea about what we wanted to see on our return trip this year. We'd been so impressed with the La Sagrada Familia designed by Barcelona's eclectic architect, Antoni Gaudi that we'd bought tickets online to take another inside tour of this magnificent Cathedral building. Buying tickets online is the only way tourists can avoid very, very long lines waiting to buy tickets. Even if you had the time to line up for hours, there is no guarantee that tickets will be available as over 1600 people visit La Sagrada Familia each day and ticketed people get preference.
We had a bit of a hick-up on our trip into the Barcelona from the ship. Our coach shuttle would not drop into gear so we travelled at around 3 km as hour for 20 minutes before another coach driver came and assisted us - all the driver had to do was to drive in reverse for a short distance and the correct gear dropped in. Arriving in the city we took a local train to the Sagrada Familia Station just as we did last year and we arrived outside La Sagrada cathedral with at least an hour to spare before our inside tour was to begin.
We decided to take a leisurely walk around the outside of this iconic building as we'd not done a full circumference of the outside last year due to time constraints and the massive crowds lined up around the footpaths. This year because we were so early only a small number of crowds of people had gathered so it was easy to walk around La Sagrade and see what sections of this massive project are being worked on this year. 

We noted some additions in the number of cranes on the cathedral site than last year. Gaudi's outside design is full of surprises because none of the sides or angles of the building are typical of most cathedrals. The outside is ornate with spires, sculptures and other decorations in marble, tiles and mosaics. Each set of entrance doors, (there are at least six different entrances) has its own individual design: one door is covered in sculptured leaves with brightly coloured insects like lady-bugs, bees and butterflies. Another door is covered in all the different names for Jesus, like Son of God, The Word, The Way, The Truth, The Life, Messiah, The Light of the  World, Saviour, The Resurrection, to name a few. These names have carved in different types of wood.
Antoni Gaudi I Cornet was born on June 25th, 1852 and was the son of a boiler maker. He had a good understanding of volumes and geometrical shapes from assisting in the boiler-making shop.  After finishing high school Gaudi studied architecture at the University of Barcelona and it became the passion of his life.
In 1883, at the age of 31, Gaudi was given the task of building La Sagrada Familia Cathedral and he spent the next 43 years of his life planning and testing bold architectural ideas that would support all the creative and artistic enhancement of the cathedral he was designing.
In the last 10 years of his life Gaudi was totally dedicated to his task and he spent more and more time inside the building, even moving his bed downstairs into the area of the crypt so that he could start his daily tasks very early each morning and continue working until late In the evenings.
Gaudi was devoted to honouring God through his gift of architecture to the extent that he planned and stipulated that not one of his many ornate spires was to be taller than the mountains around Barcelona out of respect for the Master Creator of the mountains.
Gaudi died on June 10, 1926 after being accidentally run down by a tram one evening as he crossed the road outside his beloved Sagrada Familia church.



Barcelona 2 of 9


Some areas of the outside of the building had beautifully sculptured cameos of the life of Jesus,(eg his birth, shepherds hearing the news, flight to  Egypt, Jesus healing a cripple man, the last supper and all the Easter story narratives) The detail in these large sculptures  is astounding. The body and facial expressions are realistic and sensitively done. 
In contrast there are modern sculptures decorated with brightly coloured irridescently coloured mosaic tiles. One series is a fruit motif representing God's creativity in the many varieties of fruits that give evidence of the master creator's ingenuity and creativity in the beginning. Gaudi recognised that being created in God's image he had been gifted with creative ideas which reflected just a small glimpse of the nature of God


After encircling the building and marvelling at the idiocentric mishmash of ever changing detailed decorative design we decided to rest in a park that is directly opposite the main entrance of the cathedral. What a surprise we got when we entered the park which had a beautiful display of colourful flowers that had just bloomed in these early days of summer. Just metres from the road and in the park we came across a large and beautiful pond with water lillies floating on top and bright orange carp swimming endlessly back and forth under the surface. Best of all and so surprising was a perfect mirror reflection of La Sagrada cathedral on the surface of the pond. We sat and were mesmerised by it. We had no idea that this park existed last year and found the photographic reflection an added bonus. Enjoy the photo.


Barcelona 3 of 9


After a relaxing time beside the water-lilly pond we headed across the road to join the line up for those with pre booked tickets. Already this line was long and there were crowds of people in lines at different entrances. We had to wait quite a while as entrance conditions now includes bag searches and electronic security checks. My how things have changed since last year, but I guess it's better to be safe than sorry. We entered Gaudi's cathedral through tall twin-doors which have been decorated in roses. The 3D roses have been delicately  carved in timber and painted in shades of pink and it is beautiful to admire. Last year the afternoon sun was filtering through the many brightly stained-glass windows and reflecting across the marble floor and walls. This year the early morning sun filtered through the stain-glass  but the light was less intense compared to our 2018 visit.  However, the kaleidoscope of colours from the coloured glass windows,  spread across and around the whole interior of the cathedral were still amazing to see. The tall fluted columns which represent tall tree  structures took on different colours depending where we were standing.  Theses tree structure columns reach the massive height of the ceiling where they become slender white tree-branches spreading across the ceiling. It is so majestic and awe inspiring and just like last year we "oo-ed" and "arr-ed" as we looked high up above us.

We also found the various internal staircase designs intriguing: some were spirals, others looked like they were 'hanging in space'. All of the stairwells were swathed in the ethereal light filtering through the many stain-glass windows. The audio guide gave some interesting facts about the cathedral  and we learnt so much about Gaudi's work. The Sagrade Familia building began in 1882 but  Gaudi took over the project and changed it with his ideas on architecture and engineering. Right up to his death he was continuing to work on new initiatives of creating and recreating his magnificent cathedral for God's glory. When Gaudi died in 1926 less than a quarter of the building had been finished. Building has been slow because of the engineering challenges and the attention to detail that Gaudi's designs require. It has been very expensive and required private donations for the work to continue after Gaudi's death. The people of Barcellona had such respect and belief in Gaudi's design that they continue to support the cathedrals' completion. It is expected that La Sagrade Familia will be completed by the 100th anniversary of Gaudi's death. 

Barcelona 4 of 9


Last year we took a tower tour of the east tower so this year we did the west tower. A lift took us near the top of the tower base where we has a wonderful view over the city and out to the surrounding mountains. Then we climbed to the top of the tower where the view was amazing. Looking down we could see the tops of the trees in the park below and people looked like miniature action figures.
We were so high up above everything around us and as we had to walk all the way down we took our time enjoying every moment and all the different kinds of the ornamentations, towers and even workmen high up on the roof putting some finishing touches to Gaudi's creations.
We had to use a narrow circular winding staircase to descend from the tower but there were plenty of sightseeing alcove spots to stop at when there were some unusual above- the- roof line  structures to see. We has some very close views of the colourful mosaic tile decorations. From our tower slit windows we watched a craftsman working high up "in the clouds" sitting on a scaffold landing, behind netting The netting is to provide protection from the elements, birds, the danger of falling and to prevent 'things'. Falling to the ground and causing damage to people or the edifice.

The other thing that struck us was the extreme intricate detail that we were able to see as we descended the tower. I have included one example of  a leaf pattern on one of the many spires. It is presented  as green palm leaves and a delicate white dove with wings a flutter has been sculptured and perched adjacent to the palm leaves. The detail is so high above the ground that it's detail is lost to the naked eye from the ground.  This is Gaudi's to a 'tee'. The palm leaf and dove are symbols of sovereignty and the Holy Spirit and Gaudi's plans placed these symbols and many others atop his iconic steeples and towers to acknowledge God his creator.
The descent down the spiral staircase takes quite some time as it is single file for much of the way but there is plenty of time to view the city or enjoy a close encounter with some of the decorations adorning the many decorative carvings on the top of the cathedrals roof structures. Within the walls of the tower there are small slit-windows, mini balconies and passing bays with views so it does not feel at all  claustrophobic even though the tower stairwell is narrow.

Barcelona 5 of 9


After we'd completed the tower tour we headed downstairs to a new museum exhibition about Gaudi's legacy. This museum had not been set up last year and only opened this January so we were thrilled to learn more about how Gaudi's plans have been faithfully carried out  just as he planned.
Gaudi lived and breathed his  plans for his special cathedral but he also left very explicit instructions, drawings and many models of his ideas. Engineers, builders, sculptors and other artisans were able to use these to carry out Gaudi's flamboyant ideas. 
The exhibition included Gaudi's work desk, plans and various scaled models made in plaster that Gaudi had built as he tested some of his engineering ideas to see if they were possible. 
Following Gaudi's untimely death in 1926, many people thought that the cathedral work would be abandoned but many patrons raised funds to continue Gaudi's ambitious project. The government also recognised Gaudi as a uniquely gifted man and motivated the public to support the ongoing costs. Today tourists and locals who visit the site contribute even further to the completion costs and Gaudi's ideas and creative genius continue to be realised as work on the cathedral proceeds. 
Nor have Gaudi's plans been altered and this is because of Gaudi's dedication and all consuming passion for La Sagrada Familia Cathedral.

Gaudi left hundreds of  paintings, sculptures, models and notes about all of his concepts and ideas. He also performed engineering tests on his scaled models to discover and prove that his 'outlandish' ideas would work technically. These have become the blueprints, instructions and guides for those carrying out the completion works on this edifice. 
Gaudi was not only an audacious ideas man but he was a whiz at applying and describing geometry theories that inform today's builders, architects, engineers and artisans as they work together to complete what Gaudi envisioned so long ago. 
In the new museum display, we were able to view some of the drawings, plans and experimental scale models which Gaudi built to test his theories and to prove that his 'outlandish' ideas would work technically. Gaudi was not only an audacious ideas man but he was also a whiz at applying geometry theories in his designs.
As we left the cathedral we noticed another of Gaudi's creative ideas. We looked down upon a beautiful marble floor entrance vestibule area. Within the marble tiles we saw an inlay-sketch of Jesus entering Jerusalem on a colt, people waving palm leaves and others laying their cloaks on the roadway as they welcome Jesus. What a powerful reminder of an event which Isaiah has spoken about thousands of years before it took place.

Barcelona 6 of 9

We headed to a local tapas bar to try some local fare before continuing on our Gaudi day. This Spanish tapas bar reminded us of the old milk bars we used to go to back in the fifties. When we walked in a long high counter with row of revolving bar stools  greeted us. Behind the bar were shelves of every type of drink one could order and people were enjoying food served at the counter. We however, were ushered to the back of the 'restaurant' and seated at a wooden table.  A set of cutlery upon a paper serviette  was the only decoration on the bare table. We felt like locals and ordered a freshly squeezed orange juice and a Spanish sausage served in very crisp bread roll. The and the orange juice was 100% sweet -there's nothing like an orange that's ripened under a Spanish sun. The bread roll and sausage was very filling and satisfying. I can still  recall the flavours and Spanish atmosphere of our tapas visit as I write  today.
I referred to this day as "a Gaudi day" for us and that's what it became as we planned to visit other sites where Gaudi's works can be seen. Gaudi has left his mark as a master architect all over Barcelano for he not only created La Sagrade cathedral but he also designed the modernist house La Pedera, which the locals refer to as Casa Mila and he created a huge park , Parc Guell. We planned to visit both of these sites for the rest of the day. 
We had bought our tickets on line so we caught a subway train across town before boarding a bus which drove us high into the hills around the city where Parc Guell has been established. It covers a huge area across the hillside. We had planned to walk there, not knowing the topography was so hilly but the bus trip is free and is included as part of the park entrance fee, so we were grateful for this.

Park Guell began in 1900 when Eusebi Guell acquired a large property at the base of one of the mountains rising from the Barcelonian plains. It was virgin land with splendid views over the plains to the sea. Guell engaged Gaudi to plan an estate for well- to- do families within the large parcel of land. Guell wanted to create a selective residential estate so he set very strict guidelines: the estate was divided up into 60 triangular plots, only one-sixth of the estate could be built upon and the buildings were to be devoted to residential use only.
Gaudi was up for the challenge and he set out to provide creative and practical solutions for the steep topography of the estate. He overcame some of the steepness of the terrain by planning a complex system of viaducts, pathways and steps for easier access. Gaudi z. also used these structures to provided demarcation lines between plots so there was no need for fences or walls between private homes.
We entered the park via its main entrance through a beautiful set of high ornate iron gates - our first sample of Gaudi's ingenious creativity.  These gates had been brought from a Casa Vicens, an early work of Gaudi's. We knew then that we were in for a treat.
We took a slight uphill path to a levelled area where we entered an amazing Gaudi creation. A high curved portico corridor backing onto a retaining wall, above which an access roadway had been built. The portico 's feature was a curved corridor of buttress collumns made from raw stones. Each columns' stone covering gave the appearance of woven material. We were spell bound by this arched walkway and stopped for some time to try to understand how everything held together.
We continued along an upward path admiring forest trees from various  countries and pretty flowered borders along the trail. Quite a few people were also enjoying the beauty of this beautiful estate. After climbing a few steps our trail passed over a viaduct with a pretty bubbling brook rippling downwards.
Then as we rounded a bend on the pathway and we stopped in our tracks for in front of us stood an even more impressive Gaudi structure. High on a ramp above us was the weirdest stone structure of inward leaning columns with delicate goblet-like stone adornments on top. We walked up onto the ramp and through the goblet adorned corridor and entered a new section of the garden. Again we were astounded by the whole geometric patina of this thoroughfare corridor created in raw stones, defying gravity.

Barcelona 7 of 9

We continued walking through beautiful gardens and passed about four different residential homes built in the early 1900's when the estate park opened. Wealthy people were encouraged to build substantial homes within the parkland that Gaudi was creating. When the huge parcel of land was acquired by Eusebi Guell it also included a substantial, established house called the Casa Larrad. It was built in the classical style and Gaudi only made small cosmetic changes to the two storey building before Eusebi Guell made it his family home.  Today this huge home houses the municipal public school. It was donated to the city by the family following Guell's death in 1931. As we walked towards the sector where the school is we could hear the children playing in the school grounds. What a beautiful setting for a school, within a public garden with Gaudi structures, tall palm trees, forest areas and a great variety of shrubs and floral displays where many bees and butterflies flitter and flutter all day long in summer.
We continued walking downwards through the gardens and came to another Gaudi stone open-corridor structure as part of the walking route around the park. Visually, this structure had a concave tunnel effect which challenged our geometric perception - it was uncanny how it  seemed impossible to fully understand how Gaudi could have conceived the ideas he had.  
I have included pictures of other structures we came across in the park. One was a two-storey ramp structure which looked like it was propped up by stone leaning pillars. We walked along both levels and found it as solid as the Rock of Gibraltar. 

When the Barcelona City Council opened the park to the public in 1926, Austria  sent many trees to enhance the mountain park and to add sheltered and shady areas where families could picnic during the hot summers. 
We came across an open square area with commanding views over Barcelona. It is known as Nature Square and Theatre area (like a giant balcony) where all kinds of celebrations are held throughout the year. Folk dancing, sporting activities, kite flying and balloon flights are but a few activities that happen here. 
This huge public meeting area has been partly built into the mountain and partly held up by 86 tall striated columns underneath. These columns create a market area below, known as a Hypostyle Room which is covered by the surface floor of the Square above.
A Gaudi-type feature around Nature Square is its serpentine-shaped bench made from prefabricated concrete and covered in the most amazing and idiocentric tile-shard mosaic and cylindrical pieces of pottery. The views from this winding bench creation look back over the city of Barcelona.
On a clear day like today we could see the spires of Gaudi's beloved La Sagrada Familia Cathedral in the distance. Here we were enjoying Gaudi's garden creation whilst look across the city at another Gaudi project.
We sat and rested on the curved bench area and enjoyed the cool breeze, conversations with other tourists and a cool drink before heading for the exit route of this fantastic park. We had covered at least 1900 steps on our tour  but we still had a few more steps to take before days end.

Barcelona 8 of 9


Leaving the manmade square area we passed yet another amazing stone structure which looked like a natural grotto area but again it was another of Gaudi's creations. 
We walked down a set of stairs past the Hypostyle Room ( market area) and in front of us were two very unusual houses with Gaudi cake-like decorations. On their rooftops were decorative chimneys with colourful mosaic tiled designs adorning them and parts of the outside walls.  The building on the right is now a museum and the one on the left was Gaudi's home for many years prior to his temporary accommodation in the crypt of La Sagrada Familia in his latter years. We were able to tour through the house which had very thick rounded internal walls for cooling installation in the long hot summer months in Barcelona.
By the time we had toured the house, it was about 4.30pm but we still wanted to check out one more Gaudi building back in the city. We caught the shuttle bus back to Alfons X Station where we took a train back into the city. Then we walked to the intersection corner of Rambla de Catalunya and Carrer d'Arago streets where we gazed up at Gaudi's Casa Mila building which covers a huge corner block. This iconic building was designed and built by Gaudi as an set of apartments and it is still considered one of his best works.
Casa  Mila features an ornate facade of undulating cement walls and iron art nouveau balconies. Look at the roofline which serves as a balcony and you will see some weird animal shapes adorning the building. These decorated adornments are the signature symbols of Gaudi, the eclectic man whose modern ideas reached new heights in the early 1900's.
We wanted to view the interior of this iconic building which is now a museum and chic hotel. However the cost for a single tour ticket was US$25 and as keen as we were to view inside the inside we decided to "give it a miss" . Maybe we can view the inside Casa Mila on YouTube or on a TV program when we get home.
Two other things we saw at this Gaudi spot were:
1. There is bench seating on all four corners of this intersection and they these benches are made from concrete that has been  decorated in Gaudi's mush-mash of small pieces of broken tiles, often taken from demolition materials and disused objects. 
2. The street lights which have been made with decorative iron work were made by Gaudi when he built Casa Mila and though they are over 100 years old, they still operate today. Such is the genius of Gaudi.

Barcelona 9 of 9


Even though it had been a long day and our feet ached from so much walking we still had one more site to visit - the Barcelona Cathedral which is an excellent example of Spanish Gothic architecture. It's construction began in 1298 during the reign of King James ll and was completed during Alphonso V reign in 1450. Now if these dates don't " blow your mind" ,  records show that this building is built on the remains of an earlier Christian basilica and a Romanesque basilica. We found it difficult to conceive that way back then such an ornate massive building was constructed and still stands today. Document records show that the first bishop of Barcelona was Pretextat in the year 343. Over the centuries  construction changes have taken place : an open courtyard was built within the cathedral during the 14th and 15th centuries, the facade was built at the end of the 19th century and two towers which still look old, were built at the beginning of the 20th century.
Again once inside this huge monument we were amazed at the architectural structure, the internal buttresses, stain glass windows, carved marble statues, fine timber panelling, intricate marble patterned floors and the massive height of the columns and ceiling. The ongoing restoration costs must be astronomical - hence the entrance fee. 
I couldn't help thinking how much energy and effort has gone into this and other church building constructions as an expression of people's devotion to God and yet all God wants is for us to ask his forgiveness, to trust in Him and to honour and worship him in the way that we live and love one another. God is not impressed by the edifices mankind constructs though we admire them.
We decided to use a lift up one of the towers and found ourselves on top of the roof of this huge cathedral. We were able walk across the length of the roof of the cathedral by using a walkway that has been constructed  for this purpose. The 360 degree views over the city were amazing. We could see as far as the mountains in one direction, the sea in another and we had a glimpse of the Sea Princess' funnels in the distance. 
The top of the cathedral roof is sealed with tightly cemented bricks  and water channels to release rain water and the top of the dome area within the cathedral is held together with a series of red brick ridges over the domes  area of the roof. 


One other area we visited was the open courtyard  at the side of the chapel where we saw a pond filled with very large carp and 13 white geese who are enclosed in the small section of the courtyard with the pond. They were very inquisitive about us and we them. We wondered about their purpose and were told  that the 13 geese are kept here as a reminder of a 13 year old girl who was martyred for her Christian faith in the 1500's. Her body is buried in the crypt along with bishops and because she was a career of geese the church has installed 13 geese here since her death. Whenever a geese dies due to illness or old age another geese will take its place and so the 13 geese traditions continues. She was made a saint by the church and is the only young girl to be made a saint.  Umph! How traditions can overtake our worship of our creator.
Well with that little bit of  tradition we headed back to our shuttle bus stop and were shuttled back to the ship, a warm shower and a good relaxing rest whilst we built up enough energy to make it to the dining room for yet another delicious meal on the Sea Princess. 
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