Tuesday 15 October 2019

St Petersburg Second Day, 1 of 8 -The Peterhof Summer Estate

Well, it's our second day in St Petersburg. Yesterday was a long, hectic but very interesting day and after a good night's sleep on board the Sea Princess we are ready for new ventures today. We had an early start and boarded our coach at 7.30am because it was 90-120minute coach drive to The Peterhof Summer Estate our first visit for the day. It was expected that we'd spend at least 3 hours exploring the vast estate. This Summer Estate, built by Peter the Great in the 18th century.
It's been extended by each of the tsars following after after Peter the Great's rule and some buildings and parts of the grounds of the estate had to be rebuilt due to the damage done during its bombardment by enemy aircraft in WW11. 
All restoration works have been faithfully carried out to preserve the original appearance and layout of this magnificent estate which is a complex of palaces, gardens, mountains and waterfalls. 
The Peterhof Estate has been listed as a UNESCO UNESCO world Heritage site and it is easy to see why this status has been given. It is one of Russia's most famous tourist attractions with over 1 million visitors every year.

The architecture of the Palaces and the beautiful gardens very closely resemble those we'd seen on our visit to Versailles, in France. Originally, in 1709, when work began on the estate, Peter the Great built Monplaisir Palace. It's design was based on a Dutch style and he intended it to be his summer retreat where he could relax after the harsh winters of the city.
However, inspired by his visit to the French Royal Court in 1717,  Peter the Great commissioned his architects to continue extending the buildings on the estate, in the sumptuous and majestic Baroque style so fashionable in Russia and Europe at the time. He also commissioned two French garden designers and landscapers who had  been responsible for establishing Louis XIV's  extensive gardens surrounding the Palace of Versailles and his aim was to 'out-do' Louis'fabulously exotic palace  in Versailles.
The massive park and forest area which forms much of the estate has been divided into two parts. The Upper gardens which are more formal with impressive fountains and a water garden and the Lower gardens which has a collection of pools , fountains, small mountains, fruit trees and a forest. I'll refer to more about the  gardens later in this blog.

 We arrived early at the estate and it appeared that we were the first there because from  where we'd left the coach we had an excellent view of the estate. Stretch before us were magnificent formal gardens with wide avenues of red crushed-stone pathways beckoning us to enter. Best of all there was not a tourist in sight so we had the garden to ourselves and we able to take some beautiful photographs without hoards of tourists blocking our view. 
A series of ponds with statue-fountains (not yet spraying) stretched ahead of us and in the distance a long pink palace building formed a backdrop to the garden. This was indeed a complex stretch of palace buildings connected together and enhanced by a golden pagoda at each end. 
We walked  towards the palace buildings, enjoying the crisp early morning air and stopped to take a closer look at the bronze fountain statues. The craftsmanship was superb, the design and figures 'spoke' of power, success and pride.

Arriving at the palace entrance doors we were staggered to find that already hundreds of people were lined up in long queues, awaiting entrance into the palace buildings. We had left at 7:30 am and expected that at least we will be in the first group to enter the palace but alas we had to wait at least 40 minutes before we were able to enter but boy it was worth waiting for! Behind us streams of new tourist groups started arriving every minute that we were waiting to get inside and were grateful that we had made the effort to leave early because their wait was going to be a lot longer than ours. Such is the popularity of the Peterhof Estate. 

The Grand Palace is extremely grand and lavish from the entrance hall through every other room and there are many. The Entrance hall reminded us a little of the Entrance Hall into The Hermitage, in St Petersburg, except that we think that the Entrance hall in the Peterhof Estate use of gold flourishes on the walls and ceiling borders is much more extensive and intense. We climbed the Ceremonial dual Staircase which is made of white marble and is flanked by a series of superbly crafted gold statues standing on pedestals. These steps led us directly into an even more glittering-gold encrusted room, the Ballroom. Its huge glass windows, chandeliers and mirrors reflected light onto all the gold encrusted furnishings and wall decorations and the whole Ballroom became a dazzling shimmering array of glitter. It all seemed "a  little over the top" if you ask me! But that's what the baroque architectural style and decor demands and it does outshine Versailles by a tad. 
It was all very hard to take in, for whereever we looked there was glittering gold. The gold wall embellishments stretched up the walls and around the ceiling borders which surrounded a wonderful ceiling painting of maidens dancing in the clouds - a mind boggling sight! Again, as in The Winter Palace (now home of the Hermitage) the  parquet flooring patterns throughout the Peterhof palace are exquisite and unbelievably well crafted by artisans whose skills have been lost to our generation, l'm sure. 

Every room we entered in the palace, was lavishly decorated from the furnishings to the gold of the mirrors, the furniture, the flooring and even down the the detail of the ornaments in the rooms. Everything was incredibly ostentatious. I will name some of the rooms that are included in the blog, if I can remember them:

The Blue and Gold Morning Room with a dainty coffee sit on the coffee table. - 






The Breakfast Room was incredible! Its gilded furniture and heavily decorated doors framed in a heavy gold embellishment oozed extravagent wealth.  In contrast the simple table cloth with its floral decorations was gentle and easy on the eye. As was the exquisite porcelain dinner settings and the soft warm hues of the parquet flooring gave the room warmth. Take time to study this room because we did and there is so much to see.
But there's more!

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